Modern Malaysia?

There are so many things in Malaysia right up there on a par with the western world. And then there are many others that are worlds apart. It both baffles and amuses me when I have the chance to observe some of the more evident clashes:

Toilets. A standard traveller's gripe and one I don't have too many issues with. But when out in a swanky nightclub or a brand new cinema complex, the last thing you expect when you push open the gleaming toilet doors is to be confronted by putrid bogs with broken bowls, doors that don't lock and no sinks.

Meals. You accept quite fast that the relaxed social meal - a favourite pasttime of mine - is not understood here. You eat out of necessity, with fork and spoon or with your hands, no one gets served at the same time and if you're finished or want seconds, you just get up. By far the most amusing evening meal I've had here was dinner in a swish city centre hotel with the top people from the company I volunteer with. The setting was like any semi-posh restaurant at home with both western and Malay food on the menu and knives and forks on the table. But I'm still in Malaysia. No one drinks wine, so only I was served a ridiculously expensive glass of shit, refrigerated red wine with ice in it. Everyone had ordered in advance so they wouldn't have to wait for the food and it was served in completely random order, none of it together. Most of my companions struggled with the knives, swiftly reverting to cutting up steak with spoons. Once chap didn't eat his salmon fillet because he doesn't trust fish with no bones in it. Another looked at his lamb shank and mashed potato in bemusement for a while before ordering some rice to make it make sense to him.

And of course, when I went to use the toilet...

Falling

I'd almost forgotten how quick and easy it is to fall for someone, almost before you've realised it yourself. I'd also forgotten how complex it can be to convert those feelings into the reality of commitment of any kind. I can't actually believe I'm even letting myself imagine it as a possibility.

Whilst pondering the situation in the ladies room tonight, I also learnt that Suzuki makes toilet door locks. So there you go.

Sial

That's a good Malay swearword.

Some bastard has stolen my camera. I guess I must have got just that bit too trusting of everyone here. All it takes is one bad egg...

Gutted.

Conservation

How distressing to be in the middle of a stunning piece of jungle and to regularly see the carcasses of literally hundreds of trees float past in a train behind a tug boat.
How heartbreaking to watch everyone, even my lodge, throw all the rubbish straight into the river with no comprehension of potential consequences.
How disappointing to learn about the underlying politics, tension and corruption in the seemingly idyllic village.

Culture clash

Once again I'm almost painfully reminded that, no matter how much you like a place or a set of people, a cultural difference will always create a certain barrier to full understanding and acceptance of each other. I can do everything in my power to learn Malay and adopt as many local practices as are comfortable to me, but my skin will always be the wrong colour, I'll always be ridiculously tall, there's always be stumbling blocks and things I find hard to accept here or miss about home. Equally, unless I can transport everyone here to my culture and show them even just a little bit of what my life at home is like, there's no way they'll ever fully understand me.

It's a wonderful challenge, an incredible way to learn more about yourself. Sadly I don't know if it's a challenge I could live permanently. Inevitably if the cultures are as far apart as my UK one and their Malay one, home eventually calls.

The people we meet

One of my favourite things about travelling (and life in general, really) is the sheer number and vaiety of weird, wonderful, colourful and beautiful people you meet along the way. Some are simply company for a short bus trip or quick comment in the toilet queue; others stick arond for longer, a very few becoming friends for life.

Sometimes while travelling it's great to sit still and let others pass through for a while. That's possibly the thing I appreciate most aout spending time on the river lodge - sitting back and meeting whoever happens to come along.